So my time at the great ancient city of Angkor was up and it was time to move on. I had decided to take the boat from Siem Reap to Battambang (pronounced Battambong) a riverside town in the NW of Cambodia.
The boat journey cost $25, pretty expensive compared to the bus, and would take between 6 and 9 hours. Our journey would take us along the Siem Reap River, across Tonle Sap Lake and down the Sangkae River to Battambang. As it was still the dry season and the river low we were warned that the journey could take a long time and the boat could potentially run aground. In the end it took us 9 hours to reach our destination and I loved every minute!
There were seven other tourists on the boat and a few locals who would get on and off at various stops along the way. The boat was basic, wooden benches down either side, side shades that you could drop down for protection from the sun and thankfully a toilet which was innovatively kept constantly flushed by an input pipe from the river. I spent most of the time sitting on the roof and taking in the panorama around me. We travelled through floating villages and got a privileged insight into the daily comings and goings of Cambodia life on the river.
There was an abundance of beautiful birdlife and even though it was the dry season rich lush vegetation. We stopped at about 11:30am for some boat repairs which provided us with the chance to buy some local snacks and get to know our fellow passengers. We did get stuck a number of times and at one stage it took us about an hour to journey 100 meters. The boatmen, plus a willing tourist, had to push and drag the boat along at one stage with the engine straining to drive us through the shallow water.
As we approached Battambang the river became wider and deeper, it was about 6pm now and all the local kids were swimming, washing and playing in the river. They waved frantically at us, blew us kisses and jumped around in our wake. It was a wonderful experience, a highlight and privilege of the trip so far.
Blogger note: I learnt following my journey that there is some controversy about the ‘fast boat’ from Siem Reap to Battambang. Apparently the wake of the boat has caused damage to fisherman’s nets and has capsized a few of the smaller boats on the river. It was a shame to learn this negative side to such a special experience.
Written from: My beachside bungalow ‘Shanti Shanti’ in Otres 2, Cambodia with a lovely cup of coffee!














